Monday -Mental soundtrack ---> Mincemeat or Tenspeed -I always forget that New England has a couple hundred years on the West Coast and then I drive past a graveyard. -Arriving in town just as the Newport Gulls game is getting underway at Cardines Field. -The perfectly charming Admiral Fitzroy Inn. That's the view from its rooftop terrace pictured above. -Stumbling upon Emulsion Apparel on the walk to dinner, a welcome breath of creative air in a sea of unironic prep. -Dinner at Mamma Luisa: Sangiovese + cheese ravioli with fava beans and a garlicky tomato sauce. -Hermiting in my hotel room to watch the Mad Men finale.
Tuesday -Mental soundtrack ---> Piney Gir -Jet lag stands no chance against the Admiral Fitzroy breakfast and its lemon poppyseed muffins. -Morning clamber on the Cliff Walk: ocean crashing, swallows swooping, mansions looming, egrets fishing, bumblebees buzzing. -Lunch at the Coffee Grinder: Orangina + four-cheese quiche + a cheddar/spinach scone for a later snack. -Cocktail hour kicked off at Fluke with a Juniperotivo and a view of the boats in the harbor. -Newport knows my weakness for polo players. -Dinner at Perro Salado: Negra Modelo + fish tacos with cabbage slaw and chipotle mayo. -In no state to drive to Pawtucket in the rain for a punk show. Snagged a fresh-baked cookie from the Admiral Fitzroy front desk for dessert instead.
Wednesday -Mental soundtrack ---> Marthas & Arthurs -Breakfast at Franklin Spa: fresh-squeezed orange juice + cheese omelette. -Deterred from renting a bike due to pouring rain. However still drove out along Ocean Drive to admire the stormy sea, fishing coves, all the pretty houses. -Imagining Doris Duke's life at Rough Point surrounded by her dogs, her camels, her clothes, her museum-quality art collection, her backyard designed by Frederick Law Olmsted. -Lunch at The Mooring: one each of six local oyster varieties + shrimp/crab/lobster fritters with chipotle-maple mayo. -A rum tasting and tour of the facilities at the Coastal Extreme Brewing Company, Rhode Island's only microbrewery and rum distillery. -Dinner at Tallulah on Thames: a Kermit Lynch Rhone blend + local organic petite greens, marinated feta, radish, english peas, mint, pickled shallot + english peas agnolotti, fava beans, parmesan-reggiano, spring onion soubise, asparagus, morel + rosemary panna cotta, rhubarb, pistachio nougatine, almond macaroon + a strawberry caramel truffle.
Thursday -Mental soundtrack ---> Darkness Falls -Chocolate chip coffee cake at the Admiral Fitzroy. -Strolling and shopping Historic Hill, with stops at La Maison de Coco, Le Petit Gourmet, and Newport Wine Cellar. -Lunch at the White Horse Tavern: carrot-orange bisque + hummus, feta, tomato on ciabatta. -The views from the top of Hanging Rock and the abundant wildlife in the Norman Bird Sanctuary, even if said wildlife included three snakes and a hitchhiker tick. -Getting a sense of Newport's sailing culture aboard an old rum-smuggling speedboat as ships fill the harbor for the Newport-to-Bermuda race this weekend and as America's Cup vessels are unloaded by crane at Fort Adams. -Dinner at The Fifth Element: a Newcastle + spatzle with wild mushroom ragu and gruyere. -The very adorable The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel at the Jane Pickens Theater. -A nightcap at Pour Judgement in the form of a Newport Storm Blueberry ale.
Friday -Mental soundtrack ---> The Late Great Fitzcarraldos -Driving up to Providence to quickly visit the city where I once wanted to spend my college years. -Lunch at Julian's: tofu scramble with candied yams, fennel, dandelion greens, pomegranate vinaigrette. -A wander through Federal Hill to Pastiche for an exquisite strawberry tartlet. Their peanut butter/chocolate brownie made me the envy of Midway Airport when I whipped it out later too. -Fireworks over the A's game to welcome me home.